Last night we were
sitting in the apartment reading quietly, when we heard distant rumbles. The
promised storm that had supposedly been due earlier had finally arrived. In the
distance we could see occasional flashes, followed 10 to 15 seconds (possibly
more) later by the rumbles.
After one quite
spectacular flash we decided to go for a walk along the promenade by the lake,
to watch proceedings in the dark and open.
Things were quiet for
a long time. We stood leaning on the wooden rail, looking out over the quiet
waters, waiting for the next flash. Scents of pine drifted across to us from
the cooling forests that are still the main income from this area. We could
also smell barbecued food from the parillada restaurants further round the
lake, the lakes own warm, salty odour came to us, mingled with hints of sun
oil, and in one place, fish.
After we’d been down
for some time the fireworks started in the distance. They were at least 5 miles
away, possibly more, and we could barely hear the thunder at all. Occasionally
a yellow-orange flash would leap from the clouds, sometimes branching across
between clouds too. With the dark of the night, around 9.30pm, the clouds were
completely invisible to us except when lit by a flash, and the air over Port
d’Albret was pretty much clear except for enough haze to block the stars.
After about 20min the
guys lighting the fireworks had clearly run out of stuff and we went back in,
mocking the idea we would have rain.
So this morning
everything had been soaked in the night.
It can’t have rained
hard because we had our windows open for fresh air, and would have heard it.
Never the less there were puddles of water on non-absorbant surfaces and the
timber of the promenade was still dark with dampness.
We popped out around
9.30 to buy our bread for the day from one of the local bakers (une baguette traditionel s’il vous plait). The air was cool and fresh as we left the
apartment, but even by the time we were heading back it had begun to warm in
the strength of the sun and the humidity was very noticeable, leaving skin
sticky.
Since we had enjoyed a
week of rest and relaxation, mostly anyway, we planned to spend more time
visiting nearby points of interest. It’s always good to pick up a little of the
local flavour and way of life too, and France likes to display its life openly
in its cities. So today we drove to Mont de Marsan, which is the Lande
departments capital, having already seen Dax.
Rather than describe
it in detail, it’s probably fair to say that it’s like any slightly scruffy
provincial city (if that’s not a contradiction in terms) with most of the
hallmark French architectural styles, just like Dax, though about 1000 years
younger. The highlight, from a sightseeing point of view, is the confluence of
rivers La Douze and Le Midou to become La Midouze (which flows into another
river further down etc etc). There are also some old buildings and a lot of
sculptures of naked people dotted around, plus pleasant gardens. Good place to
spend a few hours.
We came back
mid-afternoon and went straight to the beach, where I spent more than an hour
leaping about in the waves, pretending to be a little heroic and behaving like
a teenager. It was interesting to see I wasn’t the only one with grey hair
embarking on this kind of behaviour.
There’s a curious
thing one can do too; a study in herd mentality. If one person starts floating
in the water with their feet sticking out then other males will imitate them. It’s
almost as if it’s a signal that says “I’m so cool I can cope with these little
waves and just float here unperturbed”. It’s a very childish thing to do, but
there always seem to be at least a couple of other guys who will quite promptly
start floating with their feet out of the water too.
We also tried our new
Hawaiian Tropic sun oil that smells of bananas and leaves your fingers &
skin really sticky (makes handling a book a challenging affair).
And so home.
Tonight I cooked
chicken pan-fried with butter, shallots and garlic, a little oregano and Maggie
, then mushrooms in a crème fraiche sauce and served up with basmati rice. Pud
was an excellent pear tarte, washed down with Normadie cidre and a cabernet
rose.
:-)
footnote.
One of the apartments down below has been hosting a party. There has been
clapping and now there is singing. It sounds for all the world like a gallic
version of a traditional cockney song – you can almost see the pearly kings and
queens gyrating to their dulcet tones. Not quite ‘Knees up muvver brahn’ but
well down that way.
Now they’re onto the
drunken laughter stage, and Chris has shut the window. Looks like it’s not just
the brits who ‘like a good drink’ on holiday.
I popped outside to
see how they were doing, and from one of the restaurants further round the lake
could be heard something like the sound of the ‘Captain Pugwash’ theme tune on
an accordion and clapping in time to the music.